Exploring Alfama: Lisbon’s Oldest District and Its Moorish Legacy

When you think of Lisbon, the picturesque winding streets of Alfama probably come to mind. As the city’s oldest district, Alfama is a charming maze of narrow alleyways, hidden courtyards, and tile-covered buildings that transport you to a different era. Walking through Alfama feels like stepping back in time, with every corner echoing the stories of Lisbon’s past. But there’s more to Alfama than just its postcard-perfect views. It’s a neighborhood that has deep roots in Lisbon’s Moorish history and is filled with cultural treasures that speak to its complex legacy. Let’s take a deeper dive into this fascinating part of the city and explore its Moorish influence, historic sites, and unique charm.

PORTUGAL

9/19/20246 min read

The Heart of Lisbon’s History

Alfama is the oldest district in Lisbon, and it shows. It survived the devastating earthquake of 1755 that leveled much of the city, which is why its layout is still a tangled web of winding streets that follow the original medieval design. While the rest of Lisbon is filled with grand avenues and spacious squares, Alfama remains tightly packed and intimate, a reminder of the city’s ancient roots.

This district was originally a Moorish settlement, and its name comes from the Arabic word “al-hamma,” meaning "hot fountains" or "baths," a nod to the natural springs that once flowed in the area. The Moors ruled Lisbon from the 8th to the 12th century, and their influence is still very much alive in Alfama’s architecture, layout, and atmosphere.

Alfama’s Moorish Legacy: A Journey Through Time

1. The Winding Streets of Alfama

One of the first things you’ll notice when exploring Alfama is how different it feels from the rest of Lisbon. Its streets are narrow, winding, and often lead to unexpected viewpoints or hidden plazas. This maze-like layout is a direct legacy of the Moorish era, when cities were designed for protection, with twisting alleys to confuse potential invaders.

As you wander, you’ll come across homes and buildings that reflect a mix of architectural styles, from Moorish elements to Portuguese Manueline designs. Look closely, and you’ll see traces of the district’s history, from traditional azulejos (ceramic tiles) decorating the walls to iron balconies draped with laundry, capturing the vibrant life of the neighborhood.

2. São Jorge Castle (Castelo de São Jorge)

Perched high above Alfama, São Jorge Castle dominates the skyline and offers some of the best views of Lisbon. The castle dates back to the Moorish period, though it was originally a Visigothic fortress before the Moors expanded and fortified it in the 11th century.

When the Christian crusaders, led by King Afonso I, conquered Lisbon in 1147, the castle became a royal palace and an important military stronghold. Today, you can explore the castle’s towers, ramparts, and archaeological sites, which reveal layers of history beneath the surface. The panoramic views from the top are absolutely breathtaking, giving you a sense of the city’s past and present all at once.

3. The Fado Connection

Alfama is also the spiritual home of Fado, the soulful, melancholic music that is synonymous with Lisbon. This genre of music developed in the 19th century but is deeply connected to Alfama’s working-class roots and the emotions of longing and nostalgia, known as "saudade."

As you explore Alfama, you’ll find Fado houses (casas de Fado), small taverns where live Fado performances take place. Experiencing Fado in Alfama is like stepping into a living piece of Portuguese history, where music and the district’s Moorish influence intertwine. Don’t miss an evening performance—it’s an emotional and unforgettable experience that captures the soul of the neighborhood.

Key Sights to Explore in Alfama

While Alfama is best experienced by wandering aimlessly and discovering its hidden corners, there are a few key sights that you simply can’t miss.

1. Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa)

Located at the edge of Alfama, Lisbon Cathedral is one of the city’s most important landmarks. Built in 1147, right after the Christian reconquest of Lisbon, the cathedral stands on the site of an old Moorish mosque. Its blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles reflects the various periods of its history.

Inside, you’ll find beautiful stained glass windows, religious relics, and the Cloisters, which contain fascinating archaeological remains, including traces of the mosque that once stood here. The cathedral is a powerful reminder of the district’s transformation over the centuries.

2. Miradouros: The Best Viewpoints in Alfama

Alfama is hilly, and while navigating the steep streets can be a workout, the reward is the stunning views you’ll encounter along the way. Two of the best miradouros (viewpoints) in Lisbon are located in Alfama:

Miradouro de Santa Luzia: Known for its beautiful tiled walls and bougainvillea-covered pergola, this viewpoint offers sweeping views over the terracotta rooftops of Alfama and the Tagus River below.
Miradouro das Portas do Sol: Just a short walk from Santa Luzia, this viewpoint is a bit higher up and offers a panoramic vista over the district, with São Vicente de Fora Monastery in the distance.

Both spots are perfect for photos and for taking a moment to appreciate the timeless beauty of Alfama.

3. The National Pantheon (Panteão Nacional)

This striking white-domed building, located in the heart of Alfama, is the final resting place of some of Portugal’s most famous figures, including Amália Rodrigues, the “Queen of Fado,” and former presidents.

Originally built as the Church of Santa Engrácia, construction started in the 17th century but wasn’t completed until the 20th century, giving it the nickname “the longest construction project in Portugal.” The National Pantheon is worth a visit not just for its history, but for the views from its rooftop—you can see all of Alfama from up there!

The Soul of Alfama: Living History and Culture

Alfama isn’t just a historical district—it’s a living, breathing community. While the area has become more popular with tourists, it’s still very much a local neighborhood. As you walk through the streets, you’ll hear the sounds of everyday life: children playing in the alleyways, neighbors chatting from their windows, and the clinking of glasses from local taverns.

1. Feira da Ladra: The Thieves' Market

If you happen to visit Alfama on a Tuesday or Saturday, make sure to stop by the Feira da Ladra, Lisbon’s famous flea market. This open-air market is one of the city’s oldest, dating back to the 13th century, and it’s the perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir or simply people-watch.

From vintage clothing and antiques to handmade crafts, you never know what treasures you might find. It’s a vibrant slice of Lisbon life and a great way to support local vendors.

2. Alfama’s Festivals

Alfama truly comes alive during Lisbon’s festivals, especially in June when the city celebrates Santo António, the patron saint of Lisbon. During this time, the streets are decorated with colorful streamers, and the smell of grilled sardines fills the air.

The Santo António Festival is one of the most authentic cultural experiences you can have in Alfama, with live music, dancing, and festivities that go late into the night. It’s a chance to see the neighborhood in full celebration mode, with locals and visitors alike coming together to enjoy the party.

A Day in Alfama: How to Make the Most of Your Visit

Exploring Alfama is all about taking your time and getting lost in its streets. Here’s a suggested itinerary to help you soak up the district’s charm:

Start your day at the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa) and explore its historic interior and cloisters.
Wander up to São Jorge Castle for a tour of its ancient walls and stunning views over the city.
Take a break at Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where you can relax and take in the view.
Visit the National Pantheon and climb to the top for one of the best panoramic views of Alfama.
Enjoy lunch at a traditional tasca (local eatery), where you can sample Portuguese dishes like grilled sardines or bacalhau (salted cod).
In the evening, catch a live Fado performance at one of Alfama’s many Fado houses for an unforgettable experience.

Final Thoughts

Alfama is the beating heart of Lisbon’s history and culture. From its Moorish roots to its Fado traditions, this district is a living reminder of the many layers of Lisbon’s past. Wandering through Alfama, you’ll discover the soul of the city—its resilience, its beauty, and its undeniable charm.

Whether you’re fascinated by history, looking for breathtaking views, or simply wanting to experience authentic Lisbon, Alfama offers a little bit of everything. So, lace up your walking shoes, bring your curiosity, and get ready to explore Lisbon’s most enchanting neighborhood!journey through time!